There's a kind of recipe that is almost extinct. If you're lucky you
might spot one in a cookbook written by a local ladies' club or in the
back of your mom's recipe box. I think of it as the Surrealist Recipe.
It takes an ordinary recipe except for one very weird ingredient. (Think
of those Surrealist art classics: Salvador Dali's melting clocks, Meret
Openheim's fur-lined tea cup.) It's the recipe for the perfectly normal-tasting
cake which contains- surprise!- a can of tomato soup. It's the recipe
for Coca-Cola Chicken (reputedly one of Elvis' favorites). It's the German
Surprise Chocolate Cake which everyone is hoovering happily until the
cook ever so casually tells them they are ingesting saurkraut. I can't
help wondering how the woman who invented German Surprise Chocolate Cake
discovered that saurkraut baked in a cake actually tastes all right. Was
it a trial-and-error endeavor? What were the other unlikely ingredients
she tested in her cake before she hit on saurkraut? Did she try frozen
mixed vegetables? Kibble and Bits? Motor oil? The bigger question is why
women were motivated to dream up these bizarre recipes in the first place.
Was it just a fad like poodle skirts, Morton Downey Jr., and wheat-grass
smoothies? Was it a discrete little arena of pre-Betty Friedan domestic
creativity that fizzled when women joined the workforce and came home
too tired to do anything much in the kitchen but defrost Lean Cuisine
and Sara Lee? I'd like to think these woman - let's call them Domestic
Surrealists - were inspired by an instinct to subvert the dominant paradigm
(the last phrase is one I picked up from a bumper sticker I see a lot
in Berkeley). I don't care if half the women creating these recipes were
Republicans in the voting booth, they were subversives in the kitchen.
They dared to defy Fannie Farmer, Irma Brombecker, Betty Crocker, Julia
Child - those kitchen goddesses who taught them everything they knew.
"You have to know the rules to break them," so declared Gustave Courbet,
one of the best bad-boy artists in19th century Paris. My guess is that
these domestic surrealists knew all the rules of cooking by heart and
could produce a pot roast and a Baked Alaska with admirable facility and
skill. And it was precisely because they had reached mastery of the kitchen
arts that they had the confidence - cockiness even - and restlessness
to start pushing the rules around a little. And there's nothing cooler
than proving that you can break the rules and get away with it. Mrs. German
Surprise did it with chutzpah. (The recipe would not have qualified asI
love these Mystery Ingredient recipes. They have a ingenuity, incongruity,
and a sly sense of humor.
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